b i g s w e l l

Over the past weekend there has been some huge swell. At least 6 or 8 foot. Jacques car park is full. The point is insane. There’s about a dozen surfers out trying to catch some of the big waves which are just walling straight up and barreling for ages. A few people lost their boards and got a painful looking beating from the 8ft monsters. There were a few locals who knew what they were doing and a lot of tourists who had no idea, Who were trying to get out were you were most likely to slip over and get washed away. The waves were so big they were washing right up the beach and there were people’s hats and bags getting wet and sucked back out with the ocean. Surfboards were floating across the beach. It was pretty funny. The swell forecast only seemed to show it getting bigger. But I am definitely gonna miss the big peaks due to me being at school which should be ‘heaps’ of fun. That doesn’t matter because winter is coming and more and more swell will be coming along with it. Hopefully I wouldn’t have anything going on at those times so I can hop on my pushy and spend my day down there in the water. That usually gives me a huge adrenaline rush along with a few cuts and bruises.

9 thoughts on “b i g s w e l l

  1. Ben, I’m not sure if you have read my comments about editing?
    This piece is very interesting but needs a lot of editing. Please print it out and remind me to edit it with you.

    Do you happen to have any photos of the big swell?

  2. whoa!!! you should HAVE gone out and TAKEN some sick photos because it sounds like the waves were off THEIR chops and you would HAVE got some sick ones!!!!

  3. I’m from coastal California, and we have huge waves here as well. We need to check the weather often to see if it’s safe to go to the beach.

    1. Yeah I’ve seen some pictures of the californian shore break, If you ever heard of Shaun Smithers he is a pretty good surfphotographer you should check outt his pics, other people know him as smitherspix?? Heard of him

  4. Hey, your post is really poetic. I like it, I feel like I’m in the moment, trying to surf those waves. Well done!

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