b i g s w e l l

Over the past weekend there has been some huge swell. At least 6 or 8 foot. Jacques car park is full. The point is insane. There’s about a dozen surfers out trying to catch some of the big waves which are just walling straight up and barreling for ages. A few people lost their boards and got a painful looking beating from the 8ft monsters. There were a few locals who knew what they were doing and a lot of tourists who had no idea, Who were trying to get out were you were most likely to slip over and get washed away. The waves were so big they were washing right up the beach and there were people’s hats and bags getting wet and sucked back out with the ocean. Surfboards were floating across the beach. It was pretty funny. The swell forecast only seemed to show it getting bigger. But I am definitely gonna miss the big peaks due to me being at school which should be ‘heaps’ of fun. That doesn’t matter because winter is coming and more and more swell will be coming along with it. Hopefully I wouldn’t have anything going on at those times […]