b i g s w e l l

Over the past weekend there has been some huge swell. At least 6 or 8 foot. Jacques car park is full. The point is insane. There’s about a dozen surfers out trying to catch some of the big waves which are just walling straight up and barreling for ages. A few people lost their boards and got a painful looking beating from the 8ft monsters. There were a few locals who knew what they were doing and a lot of tourists who had no idea, Who were trying to get out were you were most likely to slip over and get washed away. The waves were so big they were washing right up the beach and there were people’s hats and bags getting wet and sucked back out with the ocean. Surfboards were floating across the beach. It was pretty funny. The swell forecast only seemed to show it getting bigger. But I am definitely gonna miss the big peaks due to me being at school which should be ‘heaps’ of fun. That doesn’t matter because winter is coming and more and more swell will be coming along with it. Hopefully I wouldn’t have anything going on at those times […]

Blue holes

It was some day before school last week I decided to go down the beach and check it out. It was freezing cold and I was wearing trousers and a jumper but my hands and toes where bare and very numb. I was going to go in the water but my big fool body wetsuit was drenched from the dew earlier that morning so I only ended up tang my short arm and leg steamer. The beach surf was small at Siphons/Blue holes, and really no huge point to go out in the water. Plus it was just too cold. So once it start to get a bit brighter and I could see there was definitely no swell and how low the tide was. I just ended up walking on the reef with my camera and tripod to get some photos of the wash up and over the reef and down into the little rock pools. While shooting in Slow shutter speed, usually leaving the shutter open for about “3 of a second giving it a long misty effect of the water washing up and down off the reef. Like both of these —>